We are extremely excited to be heading back to the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, a beautiful, remote place that we visited a few years ago with friends when we drove from bottom to top of this huge National Park. This time though we are hoping to spend a few days in the northern section to find some lovely remote campsites and hopefully some wildlife.
First though we decide to head to a much less famous part of the Okavango Delta, the panhandle, where huge lagoons and papyrus reeds form lots of channels and and make it a brilliant place for bird watching. There are a couple of campsites en-route and we also head out to Tsodilo Hills for a day. This turns out to be quite an experience. The gate is locked when we arrive and a coach load of school children turns up soon after us, also wondering how to get in, they have even pre-booked. We all decide to try another gate further down and soon we are on our way to the hills, hurrying as much as possible so that we can walk around without all the kids!
Tsodilo Hills are beautiful but it is the ancient rock art and the feeling of being in a place of such history and importance to the people of this area that makes it a very special site. Despite a spectacularly unenthusiastic guide (compulsory) we enjoy the serene atmosphere and our guide books provide all the information that our guide seems unwilling to part with. This area is famous for the San people and their unique way of life. Read The Lost World of the Kalahari if you can before visiting this area, and the Bradt Guide to Botswana also has a good history section which will give you a good feel for this special place.
The villages along the Okavango Panhandle are all named Etsha, followed by a number. This bizarre naming stems from 1969 when refugees from the Caprivi during the war in Angola were received in Shakawe. They were due to be rehoused in a new village, Etsha, but they naturally split into 13 groups and wanted to do so when they were moved to Etsha, hence the 13 separate villages, unimaginatively named. We turn off at Etsha 13 and drive the sometimes very wet and always very deep sand track to Guma Lagoon Camp. The way in has lots of different routes depending on water levels and at certain times of the year it is virtually impassable. But, for us, now, it is just good fun.
The drive is worth it too. You couldn’t find a more perfect setting, beautiful spacious pitches with private bathroom are complimented by a stunning bar, restaurant and decking over the lagoon. http://www.guma-lagoon.com. The bird life is fantastic and we go for lovely walks to add to our ever growing list of sightings. We watch a bird of prey being mobbed by egrets and other water birds and also spend ages just watching kingfishers dive into the water and bee-eaters swooping to catch insects.
There are hippos here and they are often in camp at night so extreme care needs to be taken when walking back from the bar at night. On our second night we spot a hippo in the beam of our torch and so back up quietly to take a different path, only to hear him rushing through the bush towards us from the left. We run! Zig zagging as much as we can we arrive at Landy and rush up the ladder pretty damn quick. Well that makes the heart beat a bit quicker!
The fishing is great here, Keith catches several little ones and, of course, a big one just gets away. The owners of Guma are very knowledgeable and helpful. They run a few different trips from here (including helicopter rides over the delta) and we decide to do the night boat ride and our guide catches a baby crocodile for us to see! Equally impressive are the tiny malachite kingfishers sitting on the papyrus leaves.